Load Your Boat Like A Pro With Target Bunks

Have you ever stood at the boat ramp and enviously watched a returning captain effortlessly drive their boat onto the trailer, powering straight to the bow stop without any hesitation or doubt? Maybe you thought it was years of experience, and while that may be true, many trailer boaters have a secret weapon when it comes to loading: target bunks.

Two of the most anxiety-inducing moments for trailer boaters are launching and loading, and target bunks are an easy and inexpensive way to make your time at the ramp less stressful while providing greater protection for your hull. Target bunks, also known as guide, centering, and even drunk bunks, are located near the front of the trailer, normally mounted in a V-shape that narrows toward the tongue. They cradle – or catch – the keel of the boat when loading, aligning it with the trailer, and allowing the driver to power on confidently without fear of missing the winch post.

Target bunks are most appreciated when loading in currents or other sea conditions that make a perfectly straight approach difficult. With well-installed target bunks, the trailer will automatically center the boat. Less-confident boaters and those loading alone also benefit, as the trailer is much more forgiving and corrects less-than-perfect landings. In areas where power loading is discouraged or prohibited, they will also aid in alignment when using a winch to pull the boat onto the trailer.

Other options

Used primarily for monohulls, target bunks are now common on custom-built trailers but often not a standard feature on many production models. Older trailers also rarely have them. To aid in alignment, many trailers come equipped with PVC V-guides, which can be useful but also have a frustrating tendency to rub and cause damage to the hull over time.

Others simply have keel rollers or rubber pads, which do little to align the boat and are only effective when the hull is perfectly centered, sometimes leading to impacts between the keel and trailer cross members if the captain makes a flawed approach when driving on. Fortunately, target bunks solve all these problems, and can be easily installed by the average boat owner without having to remove the boat from the trailer.

Installation

Purchasing a target bunk kit from a marine or trailer supply store or online is the easiest way to ensure you will have all the parts you need to complete the project. Different kits include different styles of brackets and metals, but the type with aluminum support tubes and stainless-steel hardware is a good choice for saltwater applications.

In addition to the kit, you’ll need two bunk boards, which can be purchased already carpeted, or you can cut pressure-treated lumber and install the carpet yourself. For most boats, 2-by-6 boards are an appropriate size, with the length depending on your trailer setup. Most tandem-axle trailers will take 5- to 6-foot bunks. On the 22-foot McKee Craft used in this project, 6-foot boards fit perfectly. As long as they are long enough to be mounted to the cross members, aligning them to cradle the bow as seen in the photos is the most important aspect. The exact assembly steps will vary based on the type of brackets you purchase, but the general installation process remains the same.

In most cases, installing target bunks is an easy job that can be knocked out before lunchtime with the right tools (and a helping hand or two). But don’t let the ease of the project overshadow the huge impact they’ll have once you arrive at the boat ramp. There are enough things to be anxious about, and loading your boat after a great day on the water shouldn’t be one of them.

1. Identify the two cross members that the bunks will mount to. Usually, these are located directly forward of the leading axle, so that the target bunks “overlap” the main bunks by a foot or so. Remove any rollers, guides, or other hardware that are in the way of the new bunks. If the trailer is used in saltwater and the hardware has rusted, you may need to remove them with a cutting tool of choice, such as a hacksaw or angle grinder.

2. Mount the support tubes and channel brackets to the trailer cross members using the U-bolts. Most target bunks are spaced wider aft and closer to each other toward the bow, sometimes almost touching if clearance allows under the keel. The assemblies can be mounted on either side of the cross members, but position them so they are equidistant from the end of each bunk to provide even support and avoid bowing of the bunk board. Tighten just enough to prevent the support tubes from slipping down, and leave enough room to slide the bunks in between the hull and bunk swivel brackets.

3. Install the bunk swivel brackets and dry fit the bunks. The location of strakes, chines, or other hull contours will sometimes limit your range of placement but, if possible, you want the front of the bunks to be close to the bow and within a few inches of the centerline from either side, widening slightly aft, and angling with the natural lines of the hull. Once you are satisfied with the placement, mark the location of the bunk swivel brackets and screw holes on the bottom of the bunk board with a marker.

• PRO TIP 1: Use a floor jack and wood block to hold up the support tubes while dry fitting the bunks.

4. Remove the bunks and swivel brackets. Cut the carpet where the brackets will fasten to the bunk and drill appropriately sized pilot holes for the lag screws.

• PRO TIP 2: Use a piece of tape to mark the desired depth of the pilot hole on the drill bit to avoid going through the board.

5. Fasten the bunk swivel brackets to the bunks using a hand ratchet to avoid overtightening the lag screws.

6. Back under the boat, align the bunk boards with the support tubes, then install the bunk swivel bracket bolts. Do not completely tighten yet.

7. Snug the bunks against the hull, then tighten the U-bolts and bunk swivel bracket bolts. Remember that target bunks are not meant to be load-bearing, so firm contact with the hull is all that is needed. A jack can be helpful here to achieve a tight fit.

8. If necessary, use a hack saw or cut-off wheel to remove excess support tube material if ground clearance appears to be a concern. Grind or file any sharp edges to prevent cuts when working under the trailer in the future. Depending on how close together the bunks are, it may be necessary to place a keel pad(s) on the cross members between the target bunks. Have someone watch the boat being loaded, and take it slow the first time to ensure the hull is properly protected and requires no further adjustments.