Winterizing Tips: Storage Ashore
In some parts of the country,
where winter means several months of bitterly cold weather, storing boats
ashore is the norm. In warmer climates, however, ice and snow may occur
infrequently, and the choice between storage ashore and storage in the
water is open to discussion.
Storage in the water means you might get
a jump on the boating season next spring. On the other hand, boats stored
ashore (on high ground) won't sink. If you have a choice, storage ashore
is a safer bet.
Storage ashore may also be less expensive over the life of a boat, since
a hull surrounded by air for several months each winter is less likely
to develop blisters than a hull that remains in the water. These blisters,
the fiberglass equivalent of rot, occur on many boats when water soaks
into the laminate below the waterline.
One note of caution: The vast majority of the claims in temperate states
involved boats that were being stored ashore. Since water retains heat
longer than air, boats surrounded by air are more vulnerable to a sudden
freeze than boats surrounded by water. Even a brief cold spell that
lasts only a night or two can do considerable damage. In temperate states,
boat owners must winterize engines and freshwater systems, especially
when boats are stored ashore. In deep freeze states, boats stored ashore
must be winterized earlier than boats stored in the water.
Supporting
Hulls
To say that a boat is better
off stored on land is to assume it will be resting on something that provides
adequate support. According to one industry expert, three times as many
boat hulls are damaged by mishandling ashore than are damaged in the water.
Some of the boats on shore are damaged suddenly when they are blown over
by windstorms. Many others, however, are damaged slowly because hulls
were distorted in storage, creating problems ranging from poor engine
alignment to broken stringers and bulkheads.
The most reliable support is provided by
custom-made cradles, which are designed specifically to support critical
areas of a boat--its engines, bulkheads, and keel. (Don't store your
boat on a cradle that was built for a different model boat.) Steel cradles
are best, but wood cradles will also do the job if they have been inspected
for deteriorated wood and corroded fastenings. Shipping cradles are
probably OK, but most will require some modification to improve lateral
support before they can be used for winter storage.
Despite the advantages, storing cradles in the off-season is often a
problem at many crowded boatyards, which instead rely on a combination
of screw-type jack stands, blocks, and timbers to support hulls. Most
boatyards do a competent job of positioning the supports, but it never
hurts to discuss technique with the yard manager before the boat is
hauled.
You could also take a cue from commercial vessels, which have their
own blocking plans indicating where blocks and jack stands should be
placed to provide the best support for your boat. Manufacturers may
be able to supply you with a plan, or you can work with the yard manager
to devise one yourself using a diagram of your boat. Save the plan and
give a copy to anyone who hauls the boat in the future.
With jack stands, the stand should be perpendicular to the hull so it
directs the boat's weight toward the ground. Misalignment of the stand
will force it out as the load is applied. Even if the stand is aligned
perfectly, safety chains must be used to prevent stands from slipping
out from under the hull.
Jack stands should be placed as far out from the boat as practical to
support the boat in high winds, with at least three per side for boats
over 26' and additional supports at overhangs. Plywood must be placed
under each base to prevent its sinking into mud, sand or asphalt. Even
when stands rest on clay that seems brick hard, they can be loosened
by heavy spring rains, shift, and spill the boat.
While jack stands must be placed properly to prevent the boat from falling
over, most of the boat's weight usually rests on its keel. Some boats
have specific requirements for support of the keel, but at least one
manufacturer warns against putting weight on the keel. If the marina
manager isn't familiar with your boat, check your manual or contact
the manufacturer.
Keels must be supported by wide timbers or blocks--the wider the better
to distribute the load. On powerboats, additional support is usually
recommended for inboard engines, fuel tanks, and heavy machinery.
With outboard and outdrive boats, weight should be taken off the transom
by lowering the drive units onto a block.
After the boat is blocked, sight along the hull and keel to make sure
the jack stands aren't depressing the hull. (You should also check in
about two weeks, after it has settled.) The boat must also be level,
or water could pool and cause stains, mildew, and/or gelcoat crazing.
Finally, never secure the boat's winter cover to the jack stands or
support blocks. There are many accounts in the claim files of boats
that fell over after stiff winds filled the covers and yanked the supports
from under the boats.
Storage
on Racks and Trailers
An increasing number of boats
are being stored ashore on dry storage racks. These racks are designed
to support "typical" boat hulls, but can't always be adjusted to support
unusual or atypical designs. If you have doubts about the support provided
by a rack, consult a marine surveyor or consider an alternative winter
location such as a trailer, which has adjustable rollers and pads to support
critical areas.
The exception is deep-draft sailboats. Trailers
are designed to support these boats when the wind is on the bow and
are rarely wide enough to provide adequate protection for certain boats
(typically, racing sailboats) when strong winds are on the beam. To
provide additional lateral support, use extra jack stands along the
hull and unstep the mast to reduce windage. Centerboard boats will probably
be OK on a trailer, especially if they are secured to the trailer's
frame and the mast is unstepped.
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