Under Foot

Keep your boat's ride-cushioning, sound-dampening foam decking looking great for years to come.

More and more boats have foam decking these days, and those of us who have it tend to love this stuff. In many ways, having foam underfoot makes your time spent aboard more enjoyable: It reduces fatigue and physical wear and tear by providing a far more comfortable surface to stand on than rock-hard fiberglass, it looks fantastic, and anglers benefit from

the reduced sound levels when something comes into contact with the deck. The downside? That foam has a limited lifespan. If you don’t maintain it properly, that lifespan will be shortened, and it’ll grow dingy-looking in short order. Here’s the rundown on maintaining your foam decking to keep it looking great.

Wash, Wash, Wash Your Boat

As is true of so many parts of a modern fiberglass boat, the number-one task is regular washing (though in this case nothing needs to be waxed – whew!) Otherwise, dirt and grime can become ground-in, and mildew or algae can get a foothold. Fortunately, foam decking can be scrubbed clean with a regular boat brush and boat soap – no harsh chemicals needed. There are also some purpose-made foam deck cleaners branded by decking manufacturers.

Before you start scrubbing, remember, this stuff is glued down. And when it comes unglued, the problem almost always starts at the edges and/or seams. With proper installation, this shouldn’t be an issue for years, but you can speed the process by scrubbing across the grain of an edge or seam, putting elbow grease and pressure on the pad where it meets fiberglass. Always scrub with the edges and seams, not against them, and you’ll prolong the decking’s lifespan.

While regular scrubbing will get rid of most scuffs and marks, certain contaminants can stain the foam. Grease- and oil-based spills, in particular, can be problematic. Some manufacturers recommend using a weak bleach solution while scrubbing with a soft-bristle brush, a tactic that has given us mixed results. (We’re also always cautious about introducing bleach on a boat; it can strip away wax or polish and leave gelcoat exposed to oxidation. If you insist on using it, be very careful to use sparingly and rinse thoroughly.)

We have a more effective solution: First, remove any of the contaminant you can using a dry rag. Then spray the spot with WD-40. Rub it with a clean section of the rag and rotate the rag to keep using clean portions. Reapply WD-40 if necessary, rub some more, and even the most bellicose blemishes magically disappear. Less than a minute later the WD-40 evaporates, leaving no trace behind. After living with foam underfoot for eight seasons, we have yet to encounter a stain that could resist this treatment.

Staying On Edge

Remember how we mentioned the edges of the foam pads can come unglued over time? This is the most common way foam decking meets its demise, and it can start happening five to 10 years after a professional installation, or faster with a DIY job. On a 20-something-foot boat, that can mean spending thousands to have it pulled off and replaced. And once a pad begins lifting up at the edge, it’s usually a slow march to coming off completely.

Stop that march in its tracks by ­regluing the foam. Several adhesive products can be used, but the one we’ve found most effective is 3M Hi-Strength 90 Spray Adhesive. First, however, you’ll need to clean the exposed fiberglass and the bottom of the loose foam pad as much as possible. After a thorough wash, I use acetone to get the surfaces contaminant-free. Then tape off the surrounding area and the top of the pad. Although the spray comes out of the can in a controlled manner, it’s almost impossible to keep every molecule of this stuff where it belongs, and once it touches a surface, it isn’t coming off. So be sure to cover and protect any surrounding areas.

Spray the adhesive both on the fiberglass and on the bottom of the pad, then wait 30 seconds to a minute and allow it to become tacky. Once it begins to set, push the pad down firmly on the fiberglass and maintain pressure. The adhesive will cure most of the way in 10 to 15 minutes but continues to cure after that. To get the best results, you’ll want to have some weighty objects (bricks work well) ready for use, place them on the pad, and leave them there overnight.

Looking Sharp

Another form of wear and tear you’ll want to protect against is rips and holes from sharp objects. Once these form, there’s no going back, and there’s no good way to patch or repair them. So, as is the case with many forms of boat maintenance, the best fix is preventive. Be careful when handling sharp or abrasive objects around the decking.

That said, in all the years of boating with foam underfoot, we’ve found it exceptionally rare for the decking to be pierced or ripped with what we’ll term “regular” use. We’ve never identified damage resulting from walking on the deck, setting down coolers and bags, or dropping things. What we have seen cause damage to foam decking on a regular basis is fish. The sharp dorsal spines of cobia and striped bass have created a few pockmarks. And bringing a stingray aboard was a huge mistake – as it thrashed, the spine in its tail poked multiple holes before hitting fiberglass and breaking off in the foam where it remains today. Other damage we’ve observed is a small slice from a screwdriver that slipped from the screw head while tightening a T-top fixture, and scratches from a feral cat that decided to move in during winter layup.

Is it worth the extra maintenance hassles to have foam decking on your boat? We give an unequivocal “yes.” Don’t forget that fiberglass decks require maintenance, too, and while they usually do last longer, having that foam underfoot expands the lifespan of things even more important than your boat – things like your feet, knees, and back.